When a Dodge Charger Daytona EV won’t start, a dead 12V auxiliary battery is the most likely cause, not the 100.5 kWh main pack. The car goes completely unresponsive: no dash, no start chime, and the app may still report a full traction battery even though the car won’t wake up at all. That’s the classic tell that the problem is downstream in the low-voltage system, not the big battery under the floor.
The Daytona EV is Stellantis’s first EV muscle car, built on the STLA Large platform with a 400-volt architecture and up to 670 horsepower in Scat Pack trim. Owners cross-shopping it against gas Chargers and Mustangs are drawn in by the performance numbers, but underneath all that torque, it starts up exactly the same way every other EV does, off a small 12V battery that has nothing to do with the horsepower rating.
Dodge Charger Daytona EV won’t start: what’s actually wrong
As with any EV, the 400-volt traction pack that powers the Daytona’s dual motors doesn’t run the car’s low-voltage electronics directly. A separate 12V battery handles the door locks, dash, infotainment, and the control modules that bring the high-voltage system online when you press start. If that 12V battery can’t hold enough charge, the car simply won’t wake up, regardless of how much energy is sitting in the main pack.
Owners on Charger Daytona forums have already flagged a specific frustration with this car: when the 12V goes down, the trunk release stops working right along with everything else, because it’s electric. That’s a bigger deal on this car than on most, since the 12V jump points and, on some builds, an emergency trunk access path both live inside or near the trunk itself.
Where the 12V battery lives, and the trunk problem
The 12V starter battery on the Charger Daytona EV is located in the trunk, on the driver’s side, tucked behind or under a side trim panel. For jump starting, though, Stellantis provides remote posts under the hood specifically so you don’t need trunk access at all: locate the jump posts there, connect a jump pack’s positive clamp to the positive post and the negative clamp to the negative post, and give it a moment before trying to start the car.
The complication shows up if you need the trunk itself with a fully dead 12V, since the electric trunk release won’t respond without power. The workaround is to jump the car first using the under-hood posts to get enough voltage back into the system, then use the normal trunk release once the car has power again. Exact post locations, covers, and any manual trunk-release procedure can vary by model year and trim, so confirm the details against your owner’s manual before you’re standing in a dark parking lot trying to sort it out.
Symptom-cause quick reference
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Completely dark, no dash, no chime, trunk won’t open | 12V battery fully dead | Jump at the under-hood remote posts |
| App shows full traction battery but car won’t wake up | 12V is the actual problem, not the main pack | Don’t waste time on the charge port, jump the 12V |
| Car starts, then dies again within a day or two | 12V nearing end of life | Replace the 12V battery |
| Trunk won’t open and car is completely dead | Electric trunk release has no power | Jump the 12V first, then use the trunk release |
| Car was driving normally, then lost power on the road | Traction pack low on charge | Mobile charge delivery, not a jump |
What to do when stranded in San Diego
The Daytona EV draws an enthusiast crowd here, and that means it shows up in some predictable spots when it strands someone.
Overnight street and garage parking. A performance car that sits for a few days between drives is exactly the kind of use pattern that lets a marginal 12V battery finally give out. If the car started fine last week and is silent now, start with the 12V.
Car meets and cruise nights. Muscle car culture runs deep in San Diego, and Daytona EVs are already showing up at meets around the county. A car that sat for hours with accessories on, or that arrived already running a weak 12V, is a common no-start setup.
Freeway on-ramps and canyon roads. If the issue is genuinely an empty traction pack rather than a 12V fault, a jump won’t do anything. That’s an out-of-charge recovery situation instead.
Charge Pro SD covers all of San Diego County and typically reaches stranded drivers in 25 to 40 minutes. Our non-Tesla EV rescue service covers the full Stellantis EV lineup including the Charger Daytona, and we carry both jump gear and mobile charging so we can tell on-site which one you actually need. For more on why the 12V matters this much on any EV, see what happens when an EV’s 12V battery dies and our EV 12V battery replacement guide.
Frequently asked questions
How do you jump start a Dodge Charger Daytona EV?
Use the remote jump posts under the hood rather than trying to access the 12V battery in the trunk. Connect a jump pack’s positive clamp to the positive post and the negative clamp to the negative post, then wait a moment before starting the car. Confirm exact post locations against your owner’s manual, since they can vary by model year and trim.
Why won’t the trunk open when the Charger Daytona EV is dead?
The trunk release on the Daytona EV is electric, and the 12V battery itself lives inside the trunk. With a fully dead 12V, there’s no power to trigger the release. Jump the car using the under-hood remote posts first to restore power to the system, then use the normal trunk release once the car responds again.
Does the Charger Daytona EV’s 670 horsepower affect the 12V system?
No. The Scat Pack’s performance comes entirely from the 400-volt traction pack and dual motors. The 12V system that starts the car and runs its low-voltage electronics is a completely separate circuit, and it behaves the same on a 496-horsepower R/T as it does on the 670-horsepower Scat Pack.
Can the Charger Daytona EV have a no-start with a full traction battery?
Yes. If the app shows a healthy range but the car won’t wake up at all, the traction pack isn’t the problem, the 12V auxiliary battery is. Trying to charge the main pack or troubleshoot the charge port wastes time in this scenario. Jump the 12V first and see if the car responds normally.
What does mobile rescue cost for a Charger Daytona EV in San Diego?
A 12V jump typically costs less than a standard tow, and a mobile charge delivery that restores enough range to reach a charger is often comparable to or less than a tow. Call (858) 400-4465 for a same-day quote, or see our mobile EV charging cost guide for a full breakdown.
If your Dodge Charger Daytona EV won’t start anywhere in San Diego County, call Charge Pro SD at (858) 400-4465 and we’ll be on our way.